Monday 28 January 2013

Beating Retreat 2013...

We got the opportunity to witness the Beating Retreat ceremony at Vijay Chowk in Delhi.

This ceremony is held every year on the 28th(full dress rehearsal) & 29th(main event) of January and it marks the official end of the Republic Day celebrations. It had been a cold day and chill comes down as the sun slowly dips into the western horizon.

The different groups of bandsmen in uniforms were ready by the scheduled time of the program. Soon the Tricolour was unfurled with the first sound of the drums and Vijay Chowk resonating with the notes of our National Anthem as people stood up in respect.

The President takes his/her seat with the three Service Chiefs seated behind her.

There were camels decked in colorful attires with men seated on their backs and stood on top on both sides of the North and South Blocks. They looked so disciplined as they stood still without making any movements at all. Soon horses came along with the motorcade of the President and took their positions.

As the national flag fluttered with the soft cool breeze, the band started playing. Everything is so organized and time bound and disciplined that the function started right on time. The ceremony opened with a parade by select contingent of Armed forces band. The next one hour was filled with music and sound created by the drummers, trumpeters, buglers, bagpipers, the brass bands, the bagpipers, which impressed all those present for the ceremony. Two new tunes were played this year for this occasion.

As the buglers sounded the “Retreat”, the flag was lowered and people stood up to catch a glimpse. And then the bands started marching up the Raisana Hills with the sound of the favourite tune, “Saare jahan se accha”. The camels and horses were seen moving away and disappearing from sight.

When we thought the ceremony had come to an end, there was something very spectacular that caught the eyes. Dusk had descended and light was fading and at that moment, all on a sudden, the Rashtrapati Bhavan, the Parliament, the North and South Blocks suddenly lit up. They were decked up with thousands of electric bulbs. This was indeed a moment that I can never forget...hypnotizing moment. The lights kept people looking at the buildings as though they have been mesmerized by some charm or spell.

There was heavy security and commandos were perched on tower tops close by There was four checking points before getting seated. From the place where we had our seats, the view was very good. It was so patriotic and how long it will last in my memory I don't know...but surely I’ll tell my grandchildren about it...

Sunday 27 January 2013

Birla Mandir...

Located on the Mandir Marg in Connaught Place, Birla Temple is the popular name for the Laxmi Narayan Temple in Delhi and the temple spreads over an area of 7.5 acres (30,000 m2) approximately and built up area is 0.52 acres (2,100 m2). It was built by BD Birla and inaugurated by Mahatma Gandhi(Father of the Nation) with the belief that it should be open to all castes and all faiths as he believed in Sarvodaya('universal uplift' or 'progress of all'). He believed that in order to fight against injustice of the British we first need to give up all inhuman practices, thus giving the same message through this temple as well. Dedicated to Laxmi (goddess of wealth) and Shiv (the preserver) this temple is frequented by locals and tourists round the year. There's one interesting thing about the temple, although it is dedicated to Lord Vishnu, it also has a large Buddhist shrine which shows unity in diversity.

Built over a period of 6 years between 1933 to 1939, this temple is constructed entirely of red sandstone and white marble. The tall structure is surrounded by gardens and fountains but as far as architecture is concerned, the Birla Temple does have a sort of beauty of its own but it's build under Nagara style of Hindu temple architecture. Its blends Orissan temple style with the Mughal style, its peculiar fascination with red-and-white is definitely Mughal. And perhaps you've already noticed the semi-Mughal arches at the entrance and on some windows. But still a synchronized blend of sculptures, idols, spires and jalis, makes this temple an architectural marvel in the capital city. The highest shikhara of the temple above the sanctum  is about 160 feet high. The temple faces the east and is situated on a high plinth. The shrine is adorned with fresco paintings depicting his life and work. It's a must visit place if you want to find peace and serenity in this bustling city Delhi...

Tuesday 22 January 2013

Rashtrapati Bhawan...President's Estate...


From everything that the Britishers have left behind in their colony, Rashtrapati Bhawan is the best marvel of all. British colonialists were known for their lavish architecture and Rashtrapati Bhawan is the best example of that. When the plan for a new city New Delhi adjacent to and south of Old Delhi(Purani Dilli) was developed in the beginning of the 20th century, the Governor-General's House was given an enormous size and prominent position. About 4,000 acres of land was acquired to begin with the construction the Viceroy’s House and adjacent Central Secretariat between 1911 and 1916 by relocating Raisina and Malcha villages that existed here under the "1894 Land Acquisition Act"

It is the largest residence of any chief of the state in the world. Even as population of people in India's slums is projected to rise to 93 million in 2011 or 7.75 percent of the total population, our head of the state lives in a grand palace maintained at a cost that runs into crores. In 2007, the maintenance cost of the presidential palace was estimated to be more than Rs 100 crore (Rs 1 billion) per year. The electricity bill of the Rashtrapati Bhavan in 2007-2008 stood at Rs 6.30 crore (Rs 63 million) followed by Rs 6.88 crore (Rs 68.8 million) in 2008-2009 and Rs 6.67 crore (Rs 66.7 million) in 2009-2010. Besides the Rashtrapati Bhavan at New Delhi, the President has official residences in two other states - Rashtrapati Nilayam near Secunderabad and The Retreat at Mashobra, near Shimla.

The Rashtrapati Bhavan is one of India's best architectural marvels. A magnificent four-storeyed mansion, it has a floor area of 200,000 square feet. It was built by using 700 million bricks and three million cubic feet of stone. The cost of building this architectural wonder escalated to Rs 12.8 million, much higher than the projected cost. The building along with the Mughal Garden and the staff quarters together cost a whopping Rs.14 million at that time.At the present rates, its value would runs into thousands of crores. The building was scheduled to be completed in four years. However, it took 17 years to complete this magnificent building, thus laying the way for tradition of backlog of projects in India which is being carried out today as well.

Edwin Lutyens was the chief architect of this impressive residence and Hugh Keeling was the chief engineer. The most prominent and distinguishing aspect of Rashtrapati Bhavan is its dome which is superimposed on its structure. Indian contractor Haroun-al-Rashid did most of the work of the main building and the forecourt was built by Sujan Singh and his son Sobha Singh.The British wanted to build a palatial residence in New Delhi for their Viceroy. They wanted "an empire in stone" to establish their colonial footprint in the Indian soil. On the eighteenth year of its completion India became independent.

After independence when C Rajagopalachari assumed the office as the first Governor General of India, he refused to stay in the Ashoka Suite used by the British Viceroy terming it as too luxurious. He preferred to stay in one of the guestrooms. The tradition was followed by successive presidents. On 26 January 1950, when Dr Rajendra Prasad became the first President of India, the building was renamed, Rashtrapati Bhavan.

The sprawling edifice has 74 lobbies and galleries, one and a half miles of corridors, 18 staircases and 37 fountains. The building was made with materials from India. Only the Italian marble was imported for the flooring. Steel is hardly used in the building. The luxurious apartments that were used by the British Viceroy were converted into a guest wing where the Heads of State of other countries stay during their visit to India.

An interesting feature of the architecture of the Rashtrapati Bhavan is the fusion of Indian and European designs. Temple bells, which are part of Hindu, Buddhist and Jain traditions have been perfectly blended with the Hellenic style architecture. The idea to design bells in the pillars of Rashtrapati Bhavan came from a Jain temple at Moodabidri in Karnataka.

The chhajjas, chhatris and jaalis give building a historic look. In some of the jaalis(stucco work), Lutyens used European styles to enhance their beauty and utility. The highlight of the building is Chhajja(extended part of the wall). These are stone slabs which are fixed below the roof of a building and are designed for the purposes of preventing the sunrays from falling on the windows and protecting the walls from the rains. Chhatris adorn the rooftop of the building. Jaalis are also of typical Indian designs, which add beauty to the architecture of the Rashtrapati Bhavan. These are the stone slabs containing lot of perforations, designed with delicate floral and geometric patterns. The chhajjas, chhatris and jaalis give building a historic look. In some of the jaalis, Lutyens used European styles to enhance their beauty and utility.

The Durbar Hall, Ashoka Hall, Marble Hall, North Drawing Room, Nalanda Suite are famous for its aesthetics and grandeur. The Yellow Drawing Room is used for smaller state functions like swearing-in of Comptroller and Auditor General, Chief Election Commissioner and induction of a solitary Minister in the Union Council of Ministers. The lavish Banquet Hall can accommodate 104 persons. The Ashoka Hall gives the feel of a large jewel box.It was originally built as the State Ballroom. It has a wooden floor, a central dance space.

Unlike most halls and chambers in Rashtrapati Bhavan, the Ashoka Hall has a painted ceiling. The painting is in the Persian style. The main painting on the roof depicts a royal hunting expedition while those towards the corners show scenes from court life. The painting done on leather was commissioned by Lady Willingdon when her husband was the Viceroy.

The North Drawing Room is used for receiving visiting heads of state. Two striking paintings are - The Transfer of power on August 14 by S N Goshal and swearing-in ceremony of First Indian Governor General. The Durbar Hall has a 2-ton chandelier hanging from a height of 33 meters. This room was called the Throne Room during the British era.There were 2 separate thrones for the Viceroy and Vicereine, which have now been replaced by a simple chair for the President.

The Rashtrapati Bhavan has a museum as well with autographed photographs of several heads of states. The gifts received by the President during visits abroad or in India and from visiting heads of state at New Delhi are exhibited here. Leaving a trail of the imperialist past are Statues of King George V and Queen Mary, oil portraits of former viceroys and governors General, the silver chair for the Queen, the brass replica of British Crown.

The Mughal Gardens spread across 13 acres is a blend of Mughal and British styles. The Mughal Gardens are open to the public in February-March every year.Two channels running north to south and two running east to west divide this garden into a grid of squares. There are six lotus shaped fountains. The fountains add to the beauty of the tranquil surroundings,rising up to a height of 12 feet. A nature trail has been developed in the President's Estate to create awareness about the environment. The trail is open for visitors on Saturdays.The garden has a variety of exotic flowers and roses. The Rashtrapati Bhavan also has nine tennis courts,
a polo ground, a 14-hole golf course and a cricket field.



Saturday 12 January 2013

Dulla Bhatti walla...Happy Lohri...

More often we have heard people singing folk songs on festive occasions in India but we never bother to understand the true meaning and stories behind them. Today on the festive day of Lohri when whole North India is busy celebrating, DELHIBUMPS would like to drag your attention towards the rituals behind the Lohri festival and some of the folk songs related to it...

Over time, people have associated Lohri to the tale of Dulla Bhatti. The central character of most Lohri songs is Dulla Bhatti,who lived in Punjab during the reign of Mughal Emperor Akbar. Dulla Bhatti was a rebel whose lineage was of Bhatti Rajputs. His ancestors were the rulers of Pindi Bhattian in Sandal Bar area of present day Pakistan. He was regarded as a hero in Punjab. Besides robbing the rich, he rescued girls being forcibly taken to be sold in slave market of the Middle East from the Punjab region. He arranged their marriages to Hindu boys with rituals and provided them with dowries. So every other Lohri song has words to express gratitude to Dulla Bhatti. One of the Lohri folk song on Dulla Bhatti goes like this...
Sunder mundriye ho!
Tera kaun vicharaa ho!
Dullah Bhatti walla ho!
Dullhe di dhee vyayae ho!
Ser shakkar payee ho!
Kudi da laal pathaka ho!
Kudi da saalu paata ho!
Salu kaun samete!
Chache choori kutti! zamidara lutti!
Zamindaar sudhaye!
Bade bhole aaye!
Ek bhola reh gaya!
Sipahee far ke lai gaya!
Sipahee ne mari itt!
Sanoo de de Lohri, te teri jeeve jodi!
Bhaanvey ro te bhaanvey pitt!
 Sunder Mundariye, hoye!'- a line from the most popular Lohri folk songs, sung in the praise of Dulla Bhatti- a dacoit from Punjab. This song speaks about how he robbed the rich to help the poor and can be translated as:

(Rhyming: beautiful one like a ringlet one!)
Who will save you poor one (to a rescued girl)
Dullah Bhatti is here for you (He rescued the girls who were abandoned and rejected after kidnap!)
The Duallah married off his daughter (the rescued girls were adopted by him as his daughters)
He gave a measure (sher about a kilo)of sugar!
The girl is wearing bridal red dress!
But her shawl is torn (poor and soiled-girl has been raped?)!
Who will stitch her shawl(repair her reputation)?!

The maternal uncle made sweet ghee bread (choori)! (maternal uncles were responsible to vouch for chastity of the girl)

The landlords ravished it (meaning the girl kidnapped by rich moghul landlords!)!
He made the landlords eat a lot!
Lots of innocent guys came (poor grooms)
One innocent boy got left behind (the poorest of poor!)
The soldiers arrested him! (Indicated that he was in collusion with Bhatti the rebel)
The soldiers hit him with a brick! (tortured him)
Cry or howl!
Give us lohri (gifts) ..long live you couple!"

Apart from folk songs, the festivals also mark their presence in calendars due to some cosmic relevance as well. It is observed that it denotes the end of the biting colds of winters when the earth is farthest from the sun at this point of time and starts its journey towards the sun, thus ending the coldest month of the year, Paush and marks the sun’s entry into the ‘Makar Rashi’ (north hemisphere), mainly associated with worshiping the sun and fire. Thus the ritual of lighting fire and offering Tils(Sesame seeds) to it.The next day after Lohri is thus, Makar Sankranti, or Maghi, when Sun enters Makar-the next zodiac sign after Dhanur. Sometimes, sun enters Makar a day earlier or later than usual; during that time, Lohri is celebrated on 12th or the 14th of January as well.

The day following Lohri is called 'Maghi', signifying the beginning of the month of Magh. According to Hindu beliefs, this is an auspicious day to take a holy dip in the river and give away charity. Thus we usually observe "Kumbh Mela" (the mass calling for the holy dip) this time in Allahabad starting from January 14th.

Cosmic relevance is the least seen thing these days when relating to festivals. We often see regional significance of the festival. In Punjab, the breadbasket of India, Lohri is not just a festival for the people of Punjab, but a symbol of life. This harvesting festival is associated with hopes of farmers, as they believe that the fields promise a golden yield to them. Wheat(Rabi crop) is the main winter crop, which is sown in October and harvested in March or April. In January, the fields come up with the promise of a golden harvest, and farmers celebrate Lohri during this rest period before the cutting and gathering of crops.


Lohri is more than just a festival, especially for the people of Punjab. Punjabis are a fun-loving, sturdy, robust, energetic, enthusiastic and jovial race, and Lohri is symbolic of their love for celebrations and light-hearted flirtations and exhibition of exuberance. Lohri celebrates fertility and the joy of life, and in the event of the birth of a male child or a marriage in the family. The first Lohri of a new bride or a newborn baby is considered extremely important. The rituals and celebrations associated with Makara Sankaranti and Lohri are only symbolic of a common thanksgiving to nature as represented by the Sun god, and in the process, the festivities embody a spirit of brotherhood, unity and gratitude, with family reunions and merrymaking generating a lot of happiness, goodwill and cheer. So let this Lohri be your best. Be jolly. Dance and enjoy, forget the rest...Happy Lohri...