Weekend Getaway...Orchha...

Orchha is small hidden gem in MP, which in all probability you would not have heard of.It is the second capital city of Bundelas and had flourished in early 17th century. Like most kingdoms, Orchha is the cornerstone of legacy left by the Bundela dynasty.It is small town that you can cover mostly on foot, but what is amazing is the fact that the town exists among the palaces and temples. So from wherever you are, you get to see the beautiful chataris, which are typical of the local architecture, creating a beautiful skyline, making it picture perfect. Orchha has palaces, fort, temples, samadhis in form of chhataris, beautiful Betwa River, a nature reserve and interesting stories. All the buildings give a kind of burnt look, as if the heat of central plains of India has left its marks on the buildings.
The most visited places in Orchha are Raja Mahal and Jehangir Mahal. Raja Mahal built by the Bundela king Madhukar Shah, is relatively simple externally, but has some exquisite paintings in the bedrooms of King and the main queen Kunwar Ganeshi. The legend has that the King was the worshipper of Lord Krishna while the queen was a devotee of Lord Rama. She dreamt of making a temple of Rama in Orchha and she went all the way to Ayodhya to get Lord Rama. She sat on the banks of river Saryu in Ayondhya and finally lord Ram came to her in the form of a small kid. As she tried to get him to Orchha, Rama had few conditions like she will have to take him to Orchha on foot, and wherever she keeps him in Orchha first he will stay there and not move from there. It took the queen some 12 years to get the idol from Ayodhaya to Orchha, while the king engaged in building a huge temple that would be visible from the queen’s bedroom. When the queen reached Orchha, the temple was still not complete, so she kept the idol in the palace kitchen and thought she would shift it to the new temple when it is completed. But she forgot the condition that Rama had put, and when the temple was complete and the queen tried to shift the idol, the idol refused to move. So the kitchen was converted into the temple and the new temple was dedicated to Lord Vishnu, and is now known as Chaturbhuj temple. Looks like in all eras it was the lady of the house who decided the faith to follow. People in Orchha worship Ram in form of king and believe him to be the King of Orchha. They believe that Ram comes to Orchha every morning and goes back to Ayodhya every evening. Both the temple and the Raja Mahal are preserved as they are not very old, but they could definitely be far cleaner than they are.
A new museum, Saaket, showcasing the different forms of paintings from across India is being built by Adiwasi Lok kala academy. This is located in what was once the Baarood Khana of the fort. As of now it has Madhubani of Bihar, Chitrakathi of Maharashtra, Kalamkari and Cheriyal Pattam of Andhra, Patua of West Bengal and Patta of Orrissa. All of these depict the scenes from Ramayan, glorifying the reigning deity of the town, Lord Rama.
Jehangir Mahal is a palace that was built for mughal king Jehangir, who visited Orchha for a day and stayed in this 236 roomed palace along with his troops. It took 22 years to build this place where the guests stayed only for a day. There was a sheesh mahal also that was a part of this palace, which has been converted into a hotel now. Jehangir mahal has been built in a fusion mode and depicts motifs that can be attributed to Hinduism as well as Islam. Walls have been painted using blue and green color representing the two religions and depicting the co-existence of these faiths in the times of Bundelas. The carvings on the sandstone doors and around the structure are all a mix of two types of architecture. While the domes are round in shape like Islamic buildings, but on top of that you would find lotus and peacocks representing Hinduism. The co-existence of both signs can be seen all around the structure. From the top floor of this 3 storied building you can get a view of the town of Orchha and also see the extent of the fort all around, along with some ruined buildings and Rai Praveen Mahal, which was a palace dedicated to the legendary dancer of the kingdom. From the top you can see the dancing platform where she used to regularly perform.
There is Lakshami temple, which is built very interestingly in the shape of an Owl, a rectangular temple which looks triangular from most angles as the main entrance is placed on one of the corners of the rectangle. There are some of the most amazing paintings of Orchha that are painted on the walls and roofs of the galleries of this temple. There are paintings made with vegetable colors and there are scratch paintings, which are made by scratching a pre-painted wall, usually done in red and white color. The paintings depict scenes from Ramayana, Mahabharata, lives of local kings and scenes from India’s first freedom struggle in 1857, indicating that the temple paintings were updated regularly by the local kings. Climb on top of this temple and you would get the view of Orchha through its delicate arches, again making it a picture perfect view. Do not miss the beak of owl on top of the entrance gate, built to make temple look like an owl, a vehicle of Goddess Lakshami.
The chhataris on the banks of River Betwa are the samadhis of Bundela kings and their families. This is the only place where I have seen samadhis of Hindu kings, and typically built in a variation of tombs. Most of the chhatris are 3 storied and built in Panchayatan style with peaks built in Nagar style of temple architecture. There are palaces, temples and baithaks dedicated to the Bundela kinsman Hardaul, who committed suicide to prove his innocence in an alleged affair with his elder brother’s wife. I met a woman who comes there and worships outside his temple everyday from morning to evening and believes that anyone who prays to Hardaul, gets anything that he or she wishes for.
Something that guide books never mention about Orchha is the nature trails that exist on the other side of Betwa. You can cross Betwa through a low bridge built on it, which you can walk on almost as you walk out of the town. There are various small trails that you can take and walk across the jungle, through Orchha nature reserve. There is river rafting also conducted by the MP tourism on Betwa, though I could not see much white water around the town, but probably they take you somewhere where there is some.
If you like history, picturesque locations, riverside and a bit of nature and hospitality, you must visit Orchha...

Lodi Garden...

Lodi gardens, spread over 90 acres, is a hot spot for morning walkers. This pristine patch of green is dotted with architectural delights from the 15th and 16th century and on Sunday mornings it becomes the best place for picnickers! The city’s picnickers come out in full force to enjoy some winter sun and the ruins come alive with people having a great time. Just watching people is enough to keep me interested for hours, but there are lots of things to do besides as well!

Chilly winter mornings are the best time to visit the garden. All you need is a rug, a flask of hot coffee/tea, a picnic basket, a book- if you want to relax and jumping around and rolling in the grass is not your idea of fun. Carrying games is a great idea too, especially if you are planning to go with kids. We had a ball of a time running after a Frisbee, but that’s when I realized how bad my hand-eye coordination really was! But the kiddies had more options than me. One bunch of kids actually set up a mini game of croquet! Sheesh, whatever happened to good ‘ol Frisbees and hula hoops!

Apart from the fun and games, it’s a lovely setting with birds, squirrels and dappled sunlight! And if you get tired of lolling around, you can always explore the myriad tombs and climb up the walls of the ruins to get a view of your surroundings!

So what are you waiting for!? Visit it this weekend and share your pics with us. We’d love that!

Jalebiwala...Chandni Chowk...

I love Jalebis, many people have confessed cheating their daily diet routine sometimes. They may not be high on the health food list, but who can resist a hot fresh jalebi? Not me, especially on a cold February morning. But I'll confess this to you: I love jalebi so much, I'll eat them even in July. You must have eaten Jalebis many a times at different place and would have loved the taste also. However, all things being equal, the best Jalebis  in Delhi may well be at Jalebi Wala in Chandni Chowk only.

Jalebi Wala has had a facelift in the last couple of years--new sign, etc. I liked it better before. But it's still well worth checking out, because the jalebis there are outstanding.  Old Delhi jalebis are different in subtle ways from what you find elsewhere in Delhi. You can find Jalebi Wala on Chandni Chowk, between the Gurdwara Sis Ganj Sahib and Red Fort, it's on the right if you are walking toward Red Fort.
 
Jalebi Wala is fairly a simple places. No AC, no need for plastic forks or spoons--fingers are sufficient. And if you look at it, Old Delhi is a pretty green place. High population density in cities means more room in the countryside for farms and forests. Also, Old Delhi is full of non-motorized transportation.  But there's a larger point I want to make. Sure, jalebis are unnecessary. They are a luxury. But a little luxury is good for us. It's the five star hotels and airlines that will ruin the world in the long run. Jalebis? We can live with them forever!!!

Coronation Park, Delhi...

On 12 December 1911 , two important declarations were made by King George V and his wife Mary here in the Coronation Park, Delhi. First,  that the Capital of British India would be shifted from Calcutta to Delhi, and the second was about  annulment of the Partition of Bengal. They also declared that India would now be ruled directly by the King and Queen of England, thereby ending the rule of the East India Company.

Here is the date with history :

1877: Coronation Park becomes venue of Delhi Durbar, when Queen Victoria was proclaimed the Empress of India.

1903: Celebrates the accession of Edward VII.

December 11, 1911: Hosts Delhi Durbar, commemorating the coronation of King George V as Emperor of India. Representatives of all the princely states attended the function.

After 100 years the park is a “graveyard of statues” as conservationist A.G. Krishna Menon describes the site of Dilli Darbar. Neglected, forsaken and in dirt Coronation park is a nightmare to get to. Sixty feet tall figure of King George and all others lies in 57 acre ground around him. Local people play cricket there and the ground is full of camel thorn shrubs, plants growing on the plinths of statues, rubbish heaps and construction work by Archaeological Survey of India to restore the glory. No one wants to reawaken the unpleasant memories of more than two centuries of British colonial rule and we find it foolish to celebrate the 100 years of Delhi when it was finalized only in 1927 and inaugurated in 1931.

Beating Retreat 2013...

We got the opportunity to witness the Beating Retreat ceremony at Vijay Chowk in Delhi.

This ceremony is held every year on the 28th(full dress rehearsal) & 29th(main event) of January and it marks the official end of the Republic Day celebrations. It had been a cold day and chill comes down as the sun slowly dips into the western horizon.

The different groups of bandsmen in uniforms were ready by the scheduled time of the program. Soon the Tricolour was unfurled with the first sound of the drums and Vijay Chowk resonating with the notes of our National Anthem as people stood up in respect.

The President takes his/her seat with the three Service Chiefs seated behind her.

There were camels decked in colorful attires with men seated on their backs and stood on top on both sides of the North and South Blocks. They looked so disciplined as they stood still without making any movements at all. Soon horses came along with the motorcade of the President and took their positions.

As the national flag fluttered with the soft cool breeze, the band started playing. Everything is so organized and time bound and disciplined that the function started right on time. The ceremony opened with a parade by select contingent of Armed forces band. The next one hour was filled with music and sound created by the drummers, trumpeters, buglers, bagpipers, the brass bands, the bagpipers, which impressed all those present for the ceremony. Two new tunes were played this year for this occasion.

As the buglers sounded the “Retreat”, the flag was lowered and people stood up to catch a glimpse. And then the bands started marching up the Raisana Hills with the sound of the favourite tune, “Saare jahan se accha”. The camels and horses were seen moving away and disappearing from sight.

When we thought the ceremony had come to an end, there was something very spectacular that caught the eyes. Dusk had descended and light was fading and at that moment, all on a sudden, the Rashtrapati Bhavan, the Parliament, the North and South Blocks suddenly lit up. They were decked up with thousands of electric bulbs. This was indeed a moment that I can never forget...hypnotizing moment. The lights kept people looking at the buildings as though they have been mesmerized by some charm or spell.

There was heavy security and commandos were perched on tower tops close by There was four checking points before getting seated. From the place where we had our seats, the view was very good. It was so patriotic and how long it will last in my memory I don't know...but surely I’ll tell my grandchildren about it...

Birla Mandir...

Located on the Mandir Marg in Connaught Place, Birla Temple is the popular name for the Laxmi Narayan Temple in Delhi and the temple spreads over an area of 7.5 acres (30,000 m²) approximately and built up area is 0.52 acres (2,100 m²). It was built by BD Birla and inaugurated by Mahatma Gandhi(Father of the Nation) with the belief that it should be open to all castes and all faiths as he believed in Sarvodaya('universal uplift' or 'progress of all'). He believed that in order to fight against injustice of the British we first need to give up all inhuman practices, thus giving the same message through this temple as well. Dedicated to Laxmi (goddess of wealth) and Shiv (the preserver) this temple is frequented by locals and tourists round the year. There's one interesting thing about the temple, although it is dedicated to Lord Vishnu, it also has a large Buddhist shrine which shows unity in diversity.

Built over a period of 6 years between 1933 to 1939, this temple is constructed entirely of red sandstone and white marble. The tall structure is surrounded by gardens and fountains but as far as architecture is concerned, the Birla Temple does have a sort of beauty of its own but it's build under Nagara style of Hindu temple architecture. Its blends Orissan temple style with the Mughal style, its peculiar fascination with red-and-white is definitely Mughal. And perhaps you've already noticed the semi-Mughal arches at the entrance and on some windows. But still a synchronized blend of sculptures, idols, spires and jalis, makes this temple an architectural marvel in the capital city. The highest shikhara of the temple above the sanctum  is about 160 feet high. The temple faces the east and is situated on a high plinth. The shrine is adorned with fresco paintings depicting his life and work. It's a must visit place if you want to find peace and serenity in this bustling city Delhi...

Rashtrapati Bhawan...President's Estate...

From everything that the Britishers have left behind in their colony, Rashtrapati Bhawan is the best marvel of all. British colonialists were known for their lavish architecture and Rashtrapati Bhawan is the best example of that. When the plan for a new city New Delhi adjacent to and south of Old Delhi(Purani Dilli) was developed in the beginning of the 20th century, the Governor-General's House was given an enormous size and prominent position. About 4,000 acres of land was acquired to begin with the construction the Viceroy’s House and adjacent Central Secretariat between 1911 and 1916 by relocating Raisina and Malcha villages that existed here under the "1894 Land Acquisition Act"

It is the largest residence of any chief of the state in the world. Even as population of people in India's slums is projected to rise to 93 million in 2011 or 7.75 percent of the total population, our head of the state lives in a grand palace maintained at a cost that runs into crores. In 2007, the maintenance cost of the presidential palace was estimated to be more than Rs 100 crore (Rs 1 billion) per year. The electricity bill of the Rashtrapati Bhavan in 2007-2008 stood at Rs 6.30 crore (Rs 63 million) followed by Rs 6.88 crore (Rs 68.8 million) in 2008-2009 and Rs 6.67 crore (Rs 66.7 million) in 2009-2010. Besides the Rashtrapati Bhavan at New Delhi, the President has official residences in two other states - Rashtrapati Nilayam near Secunderabad and The Retreat at Mashobra, near Shimla.

The Rashtrapati Bhavan is one of India's best architectural marvels. A magnificent four-storeyed mansion, it has a floor area of 200,000 square feet. It was built by using 700 million bricks and three million cubic feet of stone. The cost of building this architectural wonder escalated to Rs 12.8 million, much higher than the projected cost. The building along with the Mughal Garden and the staff quarters together cost a whopping Rs.14 million at that time.At the present rates, its value would runs into thousands of crores. The building was scheduled to be completed in four years. However, it took 17 years to complete this magnificent building, thus laying the way for tradition of backlog of projects in India which is being carried out today as well.

Edwin Lutyens was the chief architect of this impressive residence and Hugh Keeling was the chief engineer. The most prominent and distinguishing aspect of Rashtrapati Bhavan is its dome which is superimposed on its structure. Indian contractor Haroun-al-Rashid did most of the work of the main building and the forecourt was built by Sujan Singh and his son Sobha Singh.The British wanted to build a palatial residence in New Delhi for their Viceroy. They wanted "an empire in stone" to establish their colonial footprint in the Indian soil. On the eighteenth year of its completion India became independent.

After independence when C Rajagopalachari assumed the office as the first Governor General of India, he refused to stay in the Ashoka Suite used by the British Viceroy terming it as too luxurious. He preferred to stay in one of the guestrooms. The tradition was followed by successive presidents. On 26 January 1950, when Dr Rajendra Prasad became the first President of India, the building was renamed, Rashtrapati Bhavan.

The sprawling edifice has 74 lobbies and galleries, one and a half miles of corridors, 18 staircases and 37 fountains. The building was made with materials from India. Only the Italian marble was imported for the flooring. Steel is hardly used in the building. The luxurious apartments that were used by the British Viceroy were converted into a guest wing where the Heads of State of other countries stay during their visit to India.

An interesting feature of the architecture of the Rashtrapati Bhavan is the fusion of Indian and European designs. Temple bells, which are part of Hindu, Buddhist and Jain traditions have been perfectly blended with the Hellenic style architecture. The idea to design bells in the pillars of Rashtrapati Bhavan came from a Jain temple at Moodabidri in Karnataka.

The chhajjas, chhatris and jaalis give building a historic look. In some of the jaalis(stucco work), Lutyens used European styles to enhance their beauty and utility. The highlight of the building is Chhajja(extended part of the wall). These are stone slabs which are fixed below the roof of a building and are designed for the purposes of preventing the sunrays from falling on the windows and protecting the walls from the rains. Chhatris adorn the rooftop of the building. Jaalis are also of typical Indian designs, which add beauty to the architecture of the Rashtrapati Bhavan. These are the stone slabs containing lot of perforations, designed with delicate floral and geometric patterns. The chhajjas, chhatris and jaalis give building a historic look. In some of the jaalis, Lutyens used European styles to enhance their beauty and utility.

The Durbar Hall, Ashoka Hall, Marble Hall, North Drawing Room, Nalanda Suite are famous for its aesthetics and grandeur. The Yellow Drawing Room is used for smaller state functions like swearing-in of Comptroller and Auditor General, Chief Election Commissioner and induction of a solitary Minister in the Union Council of Ministers. The lavish Banquet Hall can accommodate 104 persons. The Ashoka Hall gives the feel of a large jewel box.It was originally built as the State Ballroom. It has a wooden floor, a central dance space.

Unlike most halls and chambers in Rashtrapati Bhavan, the Ashoka Hall has a painted ceiling. The painting is in the Persian style. The main painting on the roof depicts a royal hunting expedition while those towards the corners show scenes from court life. The painting done on leather was commissioned by Lady Willingdon when her husband was the Viceroy.

The North Drawing Room is used for receiving visiting heads of state. Two striking paintings are - The Transfer of power on August 14 by S N Goshal and swearing-in ceremony of First Indian Governor General. The Durbar Hall has a 2-ton chandelier hanging from a height of 33 meters. This room was called the Throne Room during the British era.There were 2 separate thrones for the Viceroy and Vicereine, which have now been replaced by a simple chair for the President.

The Rashtrapati Bhavan has a museum as well with autographed photographs of several heads of states. The gifts received by the President during visits abroad or in India and from visiting heads of state at New Delhi are exhibited here. Leaving a trail of the imperialist past are Statues of King George V and Queen Mary, oil portraits of former viceroys and governors General, the silver chair for the Queen, the brass replica of British Crown.

The Mughal Gardens spread across 13 acres is a blend of Mughal and British styles. The Mughal Gardens are open to the public in February-March every year.Two channels running north to south and two running east to west divide this garden into a grid of squares. There are six lotus shaped fountains. The fountains add to the beauty of the tranquil surroundings,rising up to a height of 12 feet. A nature trail has been developed in the President's Estate to create awareness about the environment. The trail is open for visitors on Saturdays.The garden has a variety of exotic flowers and roses. The Rashtrapati Bhavan also has nine tennis courts,
a polo ground, a 14-hole golf course and a cricket field.